Destinations  /  East Asia

East Asia — Guide

Japan

Tokyo's neon, Kyoto's quiet, Osaka's appetite — three cities, one bullet train, done properly.

Japan rewards travellers who commit to more than one city. Tokyo is speed and precision — neon, sushi counters, temples tucked between skyscrapers. Kyoto is what remains when you slow down — machiya streets, moss gardens, a thousand vermilion gates climbing a mountain. Osaka is the appetite in between — street food, warmth, and none of the formality.

A Shinkansen ride connects all three in under three hours combined, which is precisely why this guide treats Japan as one itinerary rather than three separate trips — including the day trips locals actually take: Nara and Uji from Kyoto, Kobe from Osaka.

Best For

  • First-time visitors wanting the essential arc
  • Food-driven travellers
  • Temple & culture pilgrims
  • Couples wanting contrast — neon and stillness
  • Multi-generational families
  • Photography & content creators

Top Experiences

What To Do

Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka each have their own rhythm — browse by city, including the day trips worth building a whole day around.

Temples of Tokyo the essential three

01

Senso-ji & Asakusa

The Editor's Pick

ASAKUSA · TOKYO'S OLDEST TEMPLE · NAKAMISE STREET

Founded in 645 AD, Senso-ji is Tokyo's oldest temple and its most photographed — the giant red Kaminarimon lantern, the five-storey pagoda, and Nakamise-dori's 200 metres of stalls leading up to it. Go at opening (6am) to see it empty, or after dark when the pagoda is lit and the crowds have gone.

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02

Meiji Jingu

HARAJUKU · FORESTED SHRINE · SAKE BARRELS

A 100,000-tree forest planted by hand a century ago hides this Shinto shrine to Emperor Meiji, five minutes from Harajuku's chaos. The gravel approach past a wall of sake barrels is one of Tokyo's best free walks — allow an hour, longer if a traditional wedding procession crosses your path.

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03

Gotokuji — The Cat Temple

SETAGAYA · MANEKI-NEKO BIRTHPLACE · QUIET NEIGHBOURHOOD

Legend holds that a beckoning cat once saved a feudal lord from a thunderstorm here, and Gotokuji has been filling up with lucky-cat figurines ever since — thousands of them, all raising the same right paw. It's a 30-minute train ride from Shinjuku and worth every stop; buy a small maneki-neko of your own before you leave.

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Experiences

04

teamLab Planets

TOYOSU · IMMERSIVE DIGITAL ART · BAREFOOT

You walk barefoot through ankle-deep water lit by drifting koi projections, then into a mirrored infinity room of hanging orchids. It sounds gimmicky until you're standing in it — book timed-entry tickets weeks ahead, this sells out constantly.

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05

Shibuya Sky at Dusk

SHIBUYA · ROOFTOP OBSERVATORY · SUNSET

An open-air rooftop 230 metres above the crossing itself — time it for sunset and watch Tokyo switch from daylight to a grid of neon in real time. Book the timed slot in advance; walk-up queues can run past an hour.

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06

Toyosu Market Sushi Breakfast

TOYOSU · TUNA AUCTION · OMAKASE

Tsukiji's famous tuna auction moved to Toyosu in 2018, but the ritual survived — arrive by 6am to watch it from the viewing deck, then sit down at one of the counter sushi-yas nearby for the freshest breakfast you'll have all year.

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07

Shinjuku Sumo Show & Experience

SHINJUKU · LIVE DEMONSTRATION · PHOTO WITH A WRESTLER

A live sumo demonstration with a retired or active wrestler, walked through the rituals and rules up close, with a photo opportunity at the end — the most accessible way to actually understand the sport without a ticket to a tournament.

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08

Go Karting in Shibuya

SHIBUYA · STREET-LEGAL KARTS · COSTUME OPTIONAL

Street-legal go-karts through central Tokyo's actual traffic — past Shibuya Crossing, under neon, with a valid driving licence and a guide leading the pack. Ridiculous, memorable, and exactly the kind of thing you can't do at home.

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09

Pokémon Café

The Editor's Pick

NIHONBASHI · RESERVATION ONLY · THEMED MENU

The official Pokémon Café, tucked inside the Nihonbashi Takashimaya S.C. Annex — Pikachu- and Eevee-shaped dishes and drinks, exclusive merchandise sold nowhere else, and the occasional in-cafe mini performance. It's reservation-only, released online in batches, and the slots go in minutes — set an alarm for whenever the next release window opens and book the moment it does. Get there via Nihonbashi Station (Ginza, Tozai or Toei Asakusa lines), then straight into the Takashimaya annex.

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10

Ichiran Ramen

SHIBUYA · SOLO DINING BOOTHS · TONKOTSU

Ichiran didn't just make good tonkotsu ramen — it built an entire, genuinely fascinating dining ritual around eating it alone. Order and pay at a vending machine, fill out a paper form customising your noodle firmness, broth richness, garlic and spice level exactly, then sit at a partitioned single-seat "flavour concentration booth" where a curtain drops in front of you and a pair of hands delivers your bowl in silence. No small talk, no waiting on anyone else, nothing but you and the ramen — it flips the Western idea that eating alone is something to apologise for into the entire point. Worth doing at least once purely for how strange and brilliant the system is.

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Free To Watch

11

TOKYO Night & Light — Pac-Man Eats Tokyo

Free & Editor's Pick

SHINJUKU · GUINNESS WORLD RECORD · FREE, EVERY NIGHT

The entire facade of the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building No. 1 in Shinjuku turns into a game board, and Pac-Man tears across it devouring everything in sight — the building itself is certified by Guinness World Records as the largest permanent architectural projection-mapped display on earth. Pac-Man isn't the only thing you'll catch: the rotation also includes "Godzilla Attacks Tokyo," a full-scale 100-metre Godzilla battling the city across the same facade, plus ukiyo-e-inspired pieces on other nights — check which is showing the night you go. It's completely free, no ticket or reservation needed, just show up. Screenings run every night after dark, roughly every half hour between 7:30pm and 9:30pm, about 15 minutes each. Stand in the plaza in front of the building and look up.

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12

Cross Shinjuku Vision — The 3D Cat

Free & Editor's Pick

SHINJUKU STATION EAST EXIT · FREE · EVERY 15 MINUTES

A different kind of free Shinjuku spectacle, and worth pairing with the Night & Light show since it's a five-minute walk away — a giant curved 3D billboard directly above Shinjuku Station's East Exit plaza, showing a photorealistic calico cat that appears to physically sit inside the screen, yawning, pawing at the glass and peering down at the crowd below. It runs on a loop every 15 minutes (on the hour, and at 15, 30 and 45 past), roughly 7am to 1am daily, and it's become one of the most-photographed single spots in Tokyo. Occasionally other characters take over the screen for limited runs, but the cat is the one people queue their phones up for.

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Day Trip Mt Fuji

13

Mt Fuji, Lake Kawaguchi & Oshino Hakkai

2HR FROM TOKYO · OISHI PARK · SPRING-FED VILLAGE

The classic Mt Fuji day out — Oishi Park's lavender-lined lake views of the mountain, Lake Kawaguchi itself, and Oshino Hakkai, a tiny thatched-roof village built around eight ponds of Fuji's own snowmelt. Weather makes or breaks the mountain view, so build in a flexible date if you can.

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Kyoto

01

Fushimi Inari Taisha at Sunrise

The Editor's Pick

FUSHIMI · 10,000 TORII GATES · GO BEFORE 7AM

Thousands of vermilion torii gates climb Mount Inari in a corridor that takes about two hours to walk in full — most visitors only see the first ten minutes of it. Arrive before 7am and you'll have the lower gates almost entirely to yourself before the tour buses land.

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02

Kinkaku-ji, The Golden Pavilion

KITA WARD · GOLD-LEAF PAVILION · REFLECTING POND

A Zen temple sheathed entirely in gold leaf, sitting over a still reflecting pond — it's every bit as striking in person as in the photographs, which is rare. The site is a one-way loop, so budget 45 minutes and go early or late to avoid the worst of the crowds.

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03

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove & Tenryu-ji

ARASHIYAMA · BAMBOO CORRIDOR · ZEN GARDEN

A few hundred metres of towering bamboo, tall enough that the light comes through green — pair it with Tenryu-ji's UNESCO-listed garden next door, and the Togetsukyo Bridge over the Oi River for the walk back. Best at first light, before the crowds turn it into a queue.

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04

Gion Hidden Gems & Geisha Culture

GION · GEIKO DISTRICT · GUIDED WALKING TOUR

Kyoto's old geisha district, walked with a guide who actually knows which alleys matter — the machiya teahouses, the etiquette, the real difference between a geiko and a maiko. Far better than wandering Hanami-koji alone hoping to spot one.

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05

Kintsugi Workshop in Gion

GION · GOLD-REPAIR CERAMICS · TAKE IT HOME

The art of mending broken ceramics with gold lacquer, taught hands-on in a small Gion studio — you leave with your own repaired piece and a genuinely different way of thinking about damage and repair. A quiet, meditative counterpoint to a temple-heavy day.

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06

Tea Ceremony Near Kiyomizu-dera

HIGASHIYAMA · GARDEN TEA HOUSE · TRADITIONAL CEREMONY

A proper tea ceremony in a garden tea house a short walk from Kiyomizu-dera — the ritual explained step by step, not rushed through for a photo. A good, calm booking to pair with an afternoon in Higashiyama's temple lanes.

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Eat & Drink Kyoto

07

Ichiran Ramen

KAWARAMACHI · SOLO DINING BOOTHS · TONKOTSU

The same Ichiran ritual, in Kyoto — order and pay at a vending machine, fill out a paper form customising your noodle firmness, broth richness and spice level, then eat alone in a partitioned single-seat booth with a curtain dropped in front of you. It's less about the ramen (though it's genuinely good tonkotsu) and more about the system — a totally normal, even preferred, way to eat solo in Japan. Worth the queue at least once.

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08

Hikiniku to Come

Absolute Must

HIGASHIYAMA · WAGYU HAMBURG STEAK · BOOK A MONTH AHEAD

One dish, done perfectly: three A5 wagyu hamburg patties, charcoal-grilled at your seat, served with unlimited rice, miso soup and a raw egg station. It's a genuinely tiny menu executed with total precision, and it has become one of the hardest tables in Kyoto to land — reserve online up to a month ahead (a small non-refundable booking fee applies), or turn up at the door from around 8am and put your name down, hoping for a same-day cancellation slot. Either way, build your morning around it rather than the other way round.

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09

Yakiniku Hiro

PONTOCHO · GRILLED WAGYU · CENTURY-OLD MACHIYA

Premium Kuroge wagyu, grilled tableside, inside a converted century-old machiya townhouse in Pontocho — Kyoto's old hanamachi entertainment district, right by the Kaburenjo Theatre. A proper sit-down yakiniku evening with the atmosphere doing as much work as the beef.

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10

Sukiyaki Kimura

Absolute Must

TERAMACHI · SUKIYAKI SINCE 1928 · RETRO TATAMI ROOMS

Kyoto-style sukiyaki, self-cooked at your table exactly as it's been served here since 1928 — Japanese black beef simmered in a sweet soy broth, dipped in raw egg, in a retro tatami room in the Teramachi Kyogoku arcade. Sukiyaki is said to have originated in Kyoto, and this is about as close to the source as it gets, at prices well below what the atmosphere suggests.

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11

Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu

TERAMACHI · BEEF CUTLET · NEXT TO NISHIKI MARKET

Breaded, deep-fried wagyu cutlet, cooked to your own liking on a mini tableside hot plate — rare, medium, however you want it. Kyoto Katsugyu is the chain that put gyukatsu on the map, and its Teramachi Kyogoku branch sits right next to Nishiki Market — Kyoto's 400-year-old covered food market, worth a wander either side of your meal for pickles, knives, and things you've never seen before.

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12

GOKAGO — Matcha Latte

HIGASHIYAMA · HAND-WHISKED MATCHA · NEAR KIYOMIZU-DERA

An extra-rich matcha latte, built thick-base-first rather than watered down like most cafés — you watch it hand-whisked at the counter before it's called out to you. Right on the walk up to Kiyomizu-dera, which is exactly why the queue can run 30-40 minutes; go at opening if you don't want to wait.

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13

Kichi Kichi — Omurice

Absolute Must

PONTOCHO · DINNER AND A SHOW · BOOK A MONTH AHEAD

Eight seats, one dish, and a chef — Motokichi Yukimura — who has turned making an omelette into genuine theatre: fried rice tossed through the air, the omelette sliced open and unfurled over the rice in one motion, all narrated with total showmanship a foot from your seat. It's omurice, but it's also dinner and a performance in one, and it's become one of the single hardest reservations in Kyoto because of it. Book via the official website up to a month ahead — slots go within seconds of release, so keep trying.

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14

Kyoto Owls' Forest

SHINKYOGOKU · OWL CAFE · NEAR KAWARAMACHI

A small, forest-themed café a few minutes from Kawaramachi Station housing around 15 different owl species, perched at eye level and, with staff guidance, gentle enough to pet. Worth knowing: this is a genuine animal interaction experience, not a passive viewing one — follow the staff's handling rules closely and keep visits brief if the owls seem unsettled, same as you would at any responsible animal café.

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15

mochimochi — The Mochi Macho Man

KIYOMIZU · LIVE MOCHI POUNDING · VEGAN & GLUTEN-FREE

A tiny mochi shop on the slope up to Kiyomizu-dera that went viral for exactly one reason — a very muscular man pounding rice by hand with a wooden mallet and stone mortar, traditional mochi-making turned into a genuine performance. You get the show, then a matcha-strawberry or chocolate-strawberry mochi pounded fresh in front of you, still warm — vegan, gluten-free and additive-free. A five-minute stop that ends up being one of the most photographed on most people's whole trip.

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Day Trip Nara

16

Nara Park & Todai-ji's Great Buddha

45 MIN FROM KYOTO · BOWING DEER · GREAT BUDDHA HALL

Over a thousand sika deer roam Nara Park freely and, remarkably, actually bow for the rice crackers sold at every corner. Todai-ji's Great Buddha Hall — the largest wooden building on earth — houses a 15-metre bronze Buddha that makes the deer feel almost incidental. An easy half-day, 45 minutes each way from Kyoto Station.

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Day Trip Uji

17

Byodo-in Temple & Uji Tea Ceremony

20 MIN FROM KYOTO · MATCHA'S BIRTHPLACE · THE ¥10 COIN TEMPLE

Byodo-in's Phoenix Hall is the building on the back of Japan's ¥10 coin — a quick, quiet trip 20 minutes from Kyoto by train. Uji has been Japan's premier matcha-growing region for 800 years; walk the riverside tea houses before heading back.

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Osaka

01

Dotonbori By Night

The Editor's Pick

DOTONBORI CANAL · STREET FOOD · NEON

The Glico Running Man sign and a canal lined with neon is the postcard, but the real draw is eating your way down the street — takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu, eaten standing up between stalls. Osaka's food culture is built for exactly this kind of unstructured wandering.

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02

Osaka Castle Tower & Guided Walking Tour

CHUO WARD · CASTLE MUSEUM · CHERRY BLOSSOM GARDEN

Toyotomi Hideyoshi's 16th-century castle, rebuilt in concrete but still commanding — climb to the top floor observatory for a full skyline view, then walk the moat-side Nishinomaru Garden, one of Kansai's best cherry blossom spots in late March/early April.

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03

Kuromon Ichiba Market

NIPPONBASHI · OSAKA'S KITCHEN · GRILLED SEAFOOD

A 190-year-old covered market, 580 metres of grilled scallops, wagyu skewers, sea urchin and fugu — eaten fresh off the grill as you walk. Go hungry, go mid-morning before the lunch rush, and skip breakfast at the hotel entirely.

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04

Ichiran Ramen, Dotonbori

DOTONBORI · OPEN 24 HOURS · SOLO DINING BOOTHS

The most iconic branch in the chain — right on the Dotonbori canal, open 24 hours. Same ritual as everywhere else: order and pay at a vending machine, customise your bowl on a paper form, then eat alone in a partitioned booth with a curtain dropped in front of you. It's a genuinely interesting piece of Japanese food culture disguised as a ramen shop — solo dining treated as the ideal, not the fallback. Good at 2am after Dotonbori's crowds thin out.

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05

Osaka Ohsho — Gyoza

DOTONBORI · GYOZA SINCE 1969 · LANDMARK SIGN

Gyoza in Osaka is its own institution, and Osaka Ohsho is where it started — founded in 1969 near Kyobashi Station by Shinzo Fumino, now with a giant gyoza sign in Dotonbori that's become a landmark in its own right. Thin-skinned, pan-fried dumplings, cheap, fast, and exactly what locals actually eat after work rather than a tourist invention. Order them by the plate — or the box, if you're serious.

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Day Trip Kobe

06

Nunobiki Herb Garden & Kobe Beef Teppanyaki

30 MIN FROM OSAKA · ROPEWAY VIEWS · REAL KOBE BEEF

Ride the ropeway up from Shin-Kobe Station for herb garden views over the harbour, then come back down for the reason you actually came: certified Kobe beef, cooked teppanyaki-style in front of you by a chef who's done this ten thousand times. Book the teppanyaki counter well ahead — the good ones seat six a night.

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Day Trip Katsuo-ji

07

Katsuo-ji, The Daruma Temple

MINOH · THOUSANDS OF RED DARUMA DOLLS · MOUNTAIN TEMPLE

Not a castle, though it's easy to see why people remember it as one — Katsuo-ji is a 1,300-year-old mountain temple in the Minoh forest, entirely covered in thousands of round red daruma dolls tucked into every ledge, staircase and tree hollow. Write a goal on a blank daruma, paint in one eye, and come back one day to paint the other. Combine with a walk through Minoh Park to the waterfall for a full day out.

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Tokyo

One To Book

Bar Centifolia

Azabu-Juban, Tokyo · Reservation Only

Up a nondescript staircase in Azabu-Juban is the most theatrical cocktail bar in Tokyo — arguably in Japan. Owner Yuzo Komai, the 2014 Suntory Cocktail Award champion, doesn't just pour drinks: he sets them alight in blue flame, carves ice into diamonds with a katana, and finishes some in a cloud of liquid-nitrogen smoke, all from behind a marble counter lined with a hundred antique glasses.

It's the reason Bar Centifolia has over 700K followers on Instagram and is genuinely difficult to get a seat at — this is dinner-theatre-grade mixology, not a quiet nightcap. Go in expecting a show, tip generously, and book weeks out if you can.

Reserve via WhatsApp Concierge +44 7935 421167 — usually replies within the hour

Where We've Been

The Japan Diaries

Torii gates at first light, a bullet train slicing through rice fields, Dotonbori after midnight — Japan isn't one trip, it's three. Real footage, exactly as it looked.

Osaka

Concierge Only — We Don't Publish The Name

The Gold Room

Undisclosed Location, Osaka · No Public Listing

This one doesn't have a sign, a website, or a listing anywhere you can find it — we don't publish the name or the address, and neither will you. It's a six-seat counter known only to a handful of concierges in the city, which is precisely why it's stayed this good.

The chef finishes the final course under a hand of real gold leaf, let go above the counter piece by piece until it drifts down over the sushi, the table, and you — plates, hands, sleeves, all of it dusted gold by the time the meal ends. It photographs like nothing else in Osaka and tastes exactly as serious as it looks. We only ever bring a handful of guests through in a given month.

Request An Introduction By WhatsApp only — +44 7935 421167. No name, no address, until concierge confirms your seat.

Before You Go

The Essentials

Everything to sort before you land — five minutes, max.

Visa

Most Western passport holders (EU, UK, US, Australia, Canada) get 90 days visa-free — always confirm current requirements for your nationality before booking.

Best Time

Late March–April for cherry blossom, or November for autumn foliage. June is rainy season; August is hot and humid — build in air conditioning breaks.

Getting Around

The Shinkansen links all three cities — Tokyo–Kyoto is 2h15, Kyoto–Osaka just 15 minutes. Load an IC card (Suica or Pasmo) onto your phone for every subway, bus and konbini in between.

Currency

Japanese Yen (JPY). Cards are accepted in most cities now, but carry cash for temples, small ramen counters and rural day trips.

Language

Japanese. English signage is strong in Tokyo and major stations, thinner in Kyoto's back streets and rural day trips — a translation app earns its keep.

Etiquette

No tipping, anywhere. Shoes off at ryokans and some restaurants. Keep phone calls off trains, and don't eat while walking through temple grounds.

Connectivity

An eSIM or pocket wifi router sorted before landing keeps navigation, translation and restaurant bookings working the moment you land.

Book Ahead

teamLab Planets, sushi omakase counters and Ghibli Museum sell out weeks in advance — lock these in before anything else on your itinerary.

What It Actually Costs

Is Japan Expensive?

Less than people assume. The weak yen has made Japan meaningfully cheaper for Western travellers than it was a few years ago — Tokyo now runs behind London, New York and Paris on most day-to-day costs. What follows is a per-person, per-day range across Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka, excluding flights.

Budget

¥10,000–15,000Roughly $65–100 / day

  • Stay: Capsule hotels & hostels, ¥2,500–6,000
  • Eat: Konbini meals & casual counters, ¥2,000–3,500
  • Move: IC card local transit, ¥800–1,500

Mid-Range

¥20,000–35,000Roughly $130–230 / day

  • Stay: Business hotels, ¥8,000–15,000
  • Eat: Sit-down restaurants, ¥4,000–8,000
  • Move: Transit plus occasional taxis

Luxury

¥50,000–100,000+Roughly $330–650+ / day

  • Stay: Five-star hotels & ryokan, ¥30,000–100,000+
  • Eat: Kaiseki & omakase counters, ¥10,000–30,000
  • Move: Private transfers & Green Car Shinkansen

On the JR Pass: it now costs ¥50,000 for 7 days, up from ¥29,650 before October 2023 — it only pays for itself if your Shinkansen legs alone would exceed that on individual tickets. For a straightforward Tokyo–Kyoto–Osaka route, buying single tickets is usually cheaper; run your own numbers before assuming the pass is worth it.

Before You Ask Concierge

Quick Answers

Do I need cash in Japan, or can I use my card everywhere?

Cards are accepted in most cities now, especially hotels and chain restaurants, but Japan is still more cash-friendly than people expect — small ramen counters, temples, local shops and rural day trips often take cash only. Carry ¥10,000–15,000 and top up from a 7-Eleven or JP Post ATM, both of which reliably accept foreign cards.

Is tipping expected in Japan?

No — anywhere, ever. Japan has no tipping culture, and leaving money on the table is more likely to confuse staff or be quietly returned to you than appreciated. Good service is simply the standard, not something billed separately.

Do I actually need a JR Pass?

Usually not, for the itinerary in this guide. Since its price rose to ¥50,000 for 7 days in October 2023, the pass only pays off if your Shinkansen legs alone exceed that total. A straightforward Tokyo–Kyoto–Osaka loop is typically cheaper on individual tickets — add up your specific route before buying one.

Is Japan safe for solo travellers and families?

Consistently ranked among the safest countries in the world for visitors — low violent crime, trains and streets safe late at night, lost items routinely handed in intact. The usual city precautions still apply, but Japan is genuinely relaxed for solo travellers and families alike.

Do I need a visa to visit Japan?

Most Western passport holders — EU, UK, US, Australia, Canada — get 90 days visa-free for tourism. Requirements do change and vary by nationality, so confirm the current rules for your passport before booking.

Will I get by without speaking Japanese?

Yes, easily in Tokyo and major stations — English signage and menus are common. It thins out fast in Kyoto's back streets, rural day trips and smaller restaurants. A translation app (Google Translate's camera function works well on menus) closes the gap in five minutes.

What's the best phone and data setup?

An eSIM bought online before you land is the easiest option — no queueing at the airport, works the moment you land. A physical pocket wifi router is the fallback if your phone doesn't support eSIM, or if you're travelling as a group and want to split one connection.

When's the best time to visit Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka?

Late March–April for cherry blossom, or November for autumn foliage — both are peak season, so book hotels and restaurants (especially Kichi Kichi and Hikiniku to Come) well ahead. June is rainy season; August is hot and humid. Shoulder months either side of the two peaks give you good weather with noticeably thinner crowds.
Kyoto

One To Watch

mochimochi — The Mochi Macho Man

Sannenzaka, Higashiyama · On The Way Up To Kiyomizu-dera

Tucked along Sannenzaka — the sloped stone approach to Kiyomizu-dera — is a mochi shop that's gone properly viral for one reason: a very muscular man hand-pounding rice with a wooden mallet and stone mortar, the traditional way, turned into genuine street theatre. You get the show, then a matcha-strawberry or chocolate-strawberry mochi pounded fresh in front of you, still warm — vegan, gluten-free and additive-free. Five minutes, and it's one of the most photographed stops most people make on the whole trip.

Address: 2-208-14 Kiyomizu, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0862. Nearest stations are Kiyomizu-Gojo (Keihan Line) or Gion-Shijo, both followed by an uphill walk — easiest paired with Kiyomizu-dera itself or the GOKAGO matcha stop nearby.

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What to Eat

A Table Across Three Cities

Each city has its own culinary identity — Tokyo's precision, Kyoto's refinement, Osaka's appetite. Click a city to see what's worth eating there.

A note on dietary requirements: more travelers now judge a guide — or an app — by how well it handles these before a trip, not after. Vegetarian, vegan, halal, gluten-free, allergies: tell our concierge ahead of time and every recommendation above can be adapted or swapped.

Tokyo 3 Dishes

Edomae Sushi

Sushi Counter

The city that invented sushi as we know it — sit at a counter, let the chef decide (omakase), and book the good ones weeks ahead.

Where to go: Toyosu Market sushi counters, right after the tuna auction

Ramen

Noodle Counter

Tonkotsu, shoyu, miso — every neighbourhood has its own cult counter. Order from the vending machine, slurp loudly, don't linger.

Where to go: Ichiran, Shibuya — solo dining booths

Theatrical Cocktails

Nightlife

Blue flame, katana-carved ice, liquid nitrogen — Tokyo's cocktail scene treats a drink as a full performance, not a pour.

Where to go: Bar Centifolia, Azabu-Juban — see "One To Book"

Kyoto 6 Dishes

Kaiseki

Ryokan Dinner

Multi-course, seasonally driven, quietly formal — Kyoto's high culinary tradition, best experienced at a ryokan dinner.

Where to go: Your ryokan, or paired with an evening in Gion

Matcha & Wagashi

Higashiyama

Hand-whisked matcha, thick-base-first rather than watered down, alongside delicate seasonal wagashi sweets.

Where to go: GOKAGO, on the walk up to Kiyomizu-dera

Wagyu Hamburg Steak

Absolute Must

A5 wagyu patties charcoal-grilled at your seat, unlimited rice, one perfect menu executed relentlessly well.

Where to go: Hikiniku to Come, Higashiyama — book a month out

Omurice

Absolute Must

Fried rice tossed through the air, an omelette sliced open and unfurled over it in one motion — dinner and a show.

Where to go: Kichi Kichi, Pontocho — book a month out

Sukiyaki

Absolute Must

Japanese black beef self-cooked in a sweet soy broth, dipped in raw egg — a Kyoto tradition since 1928.

Where to go: Sukiyaki Kimura, Teramachi

Gyukatsu

Beef Cutlet

Breaded, deep-fried wagyu, cooked to your own liking on a mini tableside hot plate.

Where to go: Gyukatsu Kyoto Katsugyu, next to Nishiki Market

Osaka 4 Dishes

Okonomiyaki

Griddle Pancake

A savoury cabbage pancake, cooked on a griddle in front of you and finished with bonito flakes that dance in the heat.

Where to go: Any Dotonbori griddle counter — follow the queue

Kobe Beef Teppanyaki

Kobe, Day Trip

Genuine, certified Kobe beef, grilled inches from your seat — one of the few food experiences worth planning an entire day trip around.

Where to go: A teppanyaki counter near Shin-Kobe — book ahead

Gyoza

Since 1969

Thin-skinned, pan-fried dumplings — cheap, fast, and what locals actually eat after work, not a tourist invention.

Where to go: Osaka Ohsho, Dotonbori — the giant gyoza sign

Ramen

Open 24 Hours

Solo-booth tonkotsu ramen, right on the canal — good at 2am once the crowds thin out.

Where to go: Ichiran, Dotonbori

How Long You Have

Your Itinerary

Three cities properly done means at least three nights in each — fourteen days is the minimum we'd plan around, with enough room to actually see Tokyo properly. Twenty-one lets you add every day trip and restaurant in this guide without rushing a single one.

Day 1 Tokyo Arrival & Asakusa

MorningLogistics

Land & Check In

Fly into Narita or Haneda, transfer into the city, and pick up a Suica or Pasmo IC card before anything else.

AfternoonTemple

Senso-ji & Nakamise-dori

Tokyo's oldest temple, the Kaminarimon lantern, and 200 metres of stalls leading up to the pagoda.

EveningRestaurant

Ramen & Early Night

Find a counter ramen shop near your hotel and get ahead of the jet lag — a fortnight ahead of you.

Day 2 Meiji Jingu, Harajuku & Shibuya Sky

MorningTemple

Meiji Jingu

Walk the forested approach past the sake barrel wall to the shrine itself — allow an hour.

AfternoonShopping

Harajuku & Omotesando

Takeshita-dori for the chaos, Omotesando for the design shops.

EveningViewpoint

Shibuya Sky at Sunset

Book the timed slot for golden hour, then walk down into the crossing once the neon's fully lit.

Day 3 Cat Temple, Pokémon Café & Sumo

MorningMarket

Toyosu Market Sushi Breakfast

Watch the tuna auction from the viewing deck at 6am, then sit down for sushi breakfast.

AfternoonTemple & Café

Gotokuji & Pokémon Café

Tokyo's cat temple in Setagaya, then — if your reservation window landed — the Pokémon Café in Nihonbashi.

EveningExperience

Shinjuku Sumo Show

A live demonstration with a retired wrestler, rituals explained, photo included.

Day 4 teamLab, Ichiran & Shinjuku After Dark

MorningFree Time

Sleep In

Four days of jet lag and walking — take the morning slow.

AfternoonExperience & Restaurant

teamLab Planets & Ichiran

Barefoot through drifting koi projections, then a solo-booth ramen lunch at Ichiran on the way back.

EveningExperience

TOKYO Night & Light + The 3D Cat

Pac-Man (or Godzilla) on the Metropolitan Government Building, then the 3D cat billboard five minutes away at Shinjuku Station's east exit — both free, last night in Tokyo.

Day 5 Shinkansen to Kyoto, Fushimi Inari & Gion

MorningTransit

Shinkansen to Kyoto

Around 2h15 from Tokyo — reserve seats ahead if you're travelling during busier windows.

AfternoonTemple

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Drop bags at your ryokan and head straight for the torii gates — late afternoon light, thinner upper paths.

EveningRestaurant

Gion Walk & Kaiseki

Hanami-koji at dusk, then a kaiseki dinner nearby.

Day 6 Hikiniku to Come, Kinkaku-ji & Arashiyama

MorningRestaurant

Hikiniku to Come

If you didn't book a month out, queue from 8am for a same-day ticket — wagyu hamburg steaks worth the wait.

AfternoonTemple & Nature

Kinkaku-ji & Arashiyama

The Golden Pavilion, then Arashiyama's bamboo grove and Tenryu-ji before the crowds thicken.

EveningNightlife

Pontocho Alley

A narrow lantern-lit lane of counter restaurants along the Kamo River.

Day 7 Day Trip: Nara

MorningNature

Nara Park

45 minutes from Kyoto Station — over a thousand sika deer that genuinely bow for rice crackers.

AfternoonTemple

Todai-ji's Great Buddha Hall

The largest wooden building on earth, housing a 15-metre bronze Buddha.

EveningRestaurant

Gyukatsu Near Nishiki Market

Back in Kyoto — beef cutlet cooked on your own tableside hot plate, steps from Nishiki Market.

Day 8 Day Trip: Uji

MorningTemple

Byodo-in Temple

20 minutes from Kyoto — the Phoenix Hall, the building on the back of the ¥10 coin.

AfternoonExperience

Uji Tea Ceremony

Japan's premier matcha-growing region for 800 years — walk the riverside tea houses and sit for a proper ceremony.

EveningRestaurant

Sukiyaki Kimura

Back in Kyoto — self-cooked sukiyaki in a retro tatami room, running since 1928.

Day 9 Owl Cafe, Mochi & Kichi Kichi

MorningExperience

Kyoto Owls' Forest

Gentle owl interaction near Kawaramachi — follow the staff's handling rules.

AfternoonCafé

mochimochi & GOKAGO

Live mochi pounding near Kiyomizu-dera, then an extra-rich matcha latte at GOKAGO up the same slope.

EveningRestaurant

Kichi Kichi

Eight seats and a chef who turns omurice into theatre — last night in Kyoto, book this one a month out.

Day 10 On to Osaka & Dotonbori

MorningTransit

Kyoto to Osaka

Just 15 minutes by Shinkansen — check in and drop bags before heading out.

AfternoonLandmark

Osaka Castle & Nishinomaru Garden

Climb to the top-floor observatory for the full skyline view, then walk the moat-side garden.

EveningRestaurant

Dotonbori & Osaka Ohsho

The Glico sign, the canal, and a plate of gyoza at the chain that started it all in 1969.

Day 11 Kuromon Market & Day Trip: Kobe

MorningMarket

Kuromon Ichiba Market

Grilled scallops, wagyu skewers and sea urchin, eaten standing up.

AfternoonDay Trip

Day Trip: Kobe

30 minutes from Osaka — the Nunobiki Herb Garden ropeway for harbour views.

EveningRestaurant

Kobe Beef Teppanyaki

Real, certified Kobe beef, cooked in front of you — book the counter well ahead.

Day 12 Day Trip: Katsuo-ji, The Daruma Temple

MorningTemple

Katsuo-ji Temple

A mountain temple in the Minoh forest, covered in thousands of round red daruma dolls.

AfternoonNature

Minoh Park & Waterfall

A gentle forest walk down to Minoh Falls.

EveningRestaurant

Ichiran Dotonbori

Solo-booth ramen, open 24 hours, right on the canal.

Day 13 Namba & Farewell Dinner

MorningFree Time

Sleep In

Twelve days in — take this one slow.

AfternoonShopping

Namba & Shinsaibashi

Shopping arcades and back-street coffee, plus any last souvenirs.

EveningRestaurant

Farewell Dinner

Last full night in Japan — book somewhere you'll actually remember.

Day 14 Departure

MorningShopping

Last-Minute Shopping

Depending on your flight time — Kansai International is about an hour from central Osaka.

AfternoonTransit

Transfer to Kansai International

Build in extra time — the airport limousine buses fill up on peak departure days.

EveningTransit

Depart

Every day trip in this guide, three cities, nothing rushed.

Day 1 Tokyo Arrival & Asakusa

MorningLogistics

Land & Check In

Fly into Narita or Haneda, transfer into the city, and pick up a Suica or Pasmo IC card before anything else.

AfternoonTemple

Senso-ji & Nakamise-dori

Tokyo's oldest temple, the Kaminarimon lantern, and 200 metres of stalls leading up to the pagoda.

EveningRestaurant

Ramen & Early Night

Find a counter ramen shop near your hotel and get ahead of the jet lag — three weeks ahead of you.

Day 2 Meiji Jingu, Harajuku & Shibuya Sky

MorningTemple

Meiji Jingu

Walk the forested approach past the sake barrel wall to the shrine itself.

AfternoonShopping

Harajuku & Omotesando

Takeshita-dori for the chaos, Omotesando for the design shops.

EveningViewpoint

Shibuya Sky at Sunset

Book the timed slot for golden hour, then walk down into the crossing once the neon's fully lit.

Day 3 Cat Temple, Toyosu & Ichiran

MorningMarket

Toyosu Market Sushi Breakfast

Watch the tuna auction from the viewing deck at 6am, then sit down for sushi breakfast.

AfternoonTemple

Gotokuji, The Cat Temple

Out to Setagaya for Tokyo's maneki-neko sanctuary.

EveningRestaurant

Ichiran Ramen, Shibuya

Solo-booth tonkotsu — order at the machine, customise your bowl, eat in silence.

Day 4 Pokémon Café & Shinjuku Sumo

MorningPlanning

Book Pokémon Café Slots

Reservations release online in batches and vanish in minutes — keep trying from your hotel Wi-Fi.

AfternoonCafé

Pokémon Café, Nihonbashi

Pikachu- and Eevee-themed dishes, exclusive merch, the occasional mini performance.

EveningExperience

Shinjuku Sumo Show

A live demonstration with a retired wrestler, rituals explained, photo included.

Day 5 teamLab & Shinjuku After Dark

MorningFree Time

Sleep In

Five days in — take the morning slow.

AfternoonExperience

teamLab Planets

Barefoot through drifting koi projections into a mirrored orchid room.

EveningExperience

TOKYO Night & Light + The 3D Cat

Pac-Man or Godzilla on the Metropolitan Government Building, then the 3D cat billboard at Shinjuku Station's east exit — both free.

Day 6 Go Karting & Golden Gai

MorningFree Time

Free Morning

Shopping, a slow coffee, or whatever Tokyo neighbourhood you haven't wandered yet.

AfternoonExperience

Go Karting in Shibuya

Street-legal karts through central Tokyo's actual traffic, valid driving licence required.

EveningNightlife

Izakaya Crawl, Golden Gai

Tiny, standing-room-only bars stacked into Shinjuku's back alleys — last night in Tokyo.

Day 7 Day Trip: Mt Fuji

MorningViewpoint

Lake Kawaguchiko & Oishi Park

Lavender-lined lake views of Mt Fuji, weather permitting.

AfternoonViewpoint

Oshino Hakkai

A thatched-roof village built around eight ponds of Fuji's own snowmelt.

EveningTransit

Back to Tokyo, Then On to Kyoto

Return by early evening — pack tonight, Shinkansen tomorrow morning.

Day 8 Shinkansen to Kyoto, Fushimi Inari & Gion

MorningTransit

Shinkansen to Kyoto

Around 2h15 from Tokyo — reserve seats ahead if you're travelling during busier windows.

AfternoonTemple

Fushimi Inari Taisha

Drop bags at your ryokan and head straight for the torii gates.

EveningRestaurant

Gion Walk & Kaiseki

Hanami-koji at dusk, then a kaiseki dinner nearby.

Day 9 Kinkaku-ji, Arashiyama & Pontocho

MorningTemple

Kinkaku-ji

The Golden Pavilion first thing, before the tour buses land.

AfternoonNature & Temple

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove & Tenryu-ji

The bamboo corridor, Tenryu-ji's garden, and the Togetsukyo Bridge on the walk back.

EveningNightlife

Pontocho Alley

A narrow lantern-lit lane of counter restaurants along the Kamo River.

Day 10 Hikiniku to Come & Nishiki Market

MorningRestaurant

Hikiniku to Come

Booked a month out, or queue from 8am for a same-day ticket — wagyu hamburg steaks, unlimited rice.

AfternoonMarket

Nishiki Market & Gyukatsu

Kyoto's covered food market, then beef cutlet on a tableside hot plate right next door.

EveningRestaurant

Yakiniku Hiro, Pontocho

Premium wagyu grilled tableside inside a converted century-old machiya.

Day 11 Day Trip: Nara

MorningNature

Nara Park

45 minutes from Kyoto Station — over a thousand sika deer that genuinely bow for rice crackers.

AfternoonTemple

Todai-ji's Great Buddha Hall

The largest wooden building on earth, housing a 15-metre bronze Buddha.

EveningTransit

Back to Kyoto

A quieter dinner near your ryokan after a full day on foot.

Day 12 Day Trip: Uji

MorningTemple

Byodo-in Temple

20 minutes from Kyoto — the Phoenix Hall, the building on the ¥10 coin.

AfternoonExperience

Uji Tea Ceremony

Japan's premier matcha-growing region for 800 years — a proper ceremony by the river.

EveningRestaurant

Sukiyaki Kimura

Self-cooked sukiyaki in a retro tatami room, running since 1928.

Day 13 Kintsugi Workshop & Gion Culture Tour

MorningExperience

Kintsugi Workshop, Gion

The art of mending broken ceramics with gold lacquer, taught hands-on — you keep the piece.

AfternoonExperience

Gion Hidden Gems & Geisha Culture Tour

A guided walk through Kyoto's old geisha district with someone who actually knows the alleys.

EveningExperience

Tea Ceremony Near Kiyomizu-dera

A calm, unrushed ceremony in a garden tea house.

Day 14 Owl Cafe, Mochi & Kichi Kichi

MorningExperience

Kyoto Owls' Forest

Gentle owl interaction near Kawaramachi.

AfternoonCafé

mochimochi & GOKAGO

Live mochi pounding near Kiyomizu-dera, then an extra-rich matcha latte up the same slope.

EveningRestaurant

Kichi Kichi

Eight seats, one dish, total theatre — book this one a month out. Last night in Kyoto.

Day 15 On to Osaka & Dotonbori

MorningTransit

Kyoto to Osaka

Just 15 minutes by Shinkansen — check in and drop bags before heading out.

AfternoonRestaurant

Ichiran Ramen, Dotonbori

The most iconic branch in the chain, right on the canal, open 24 hours.

EveningFood Street

Dotonbori

The Glico sign, the canal, and a street-food crawl — takoyaki, okonomiyaki, kushikatsu.

Day 16 Osaka Castle & Kuromon Market

MorningLandmark

Osaka Castle & Nishinomaru Garden

Climb to the top-floor observatory for the full skyline view.

AfternoonMarket

Kuromon Ichiba Market

Grilled scallops, wagyu skewers and sea urchin, eaten standing up.

EveningRestaurant

Osaka Ohsho — Gyoza

The chain that started Osaka's gyoza obsession in 1969, giant sign and all.

Day 17 Day Trip: Kobe

MorningNature

Nunobiki Herb Garden

Ride the ropeway up from Shin-Kobe Station for harbour views.

AfternoonExperience

Kobe City Walk

Kitano's old foreign merchant houses, or the harbour front at Meriken Park.

EveningRestaurant

Kobe Beef Teppanyaki

Real, certified Kobe beef, cooked in front of you — book the counter well ahead.

Day 18 Day Trip: Katsuo-ji, The Daruma Temple

MorningTemple

Katsuo-ji Temple

A mountain temple in the Minoh forest, covered in thousands of round red daruma dolls.

AfternoonNature

Minoh Park & Waterfall

A gentle forest walk down to Minoh Falls.

EveningTransit

Back to Osaka

A relaxed dinner — you're three days from home.

Day 19 A Slower Osaka Day

MorningFree Time

Sleep In

Eighteen days in — this is the morning to skip the alarm entirely.

AfternoonShopping

Namba & Shinsaibashi

Shopping arcades and back-street coffee, no fixed plan.

EveningFree Time

Whatever You Missed

A second pass at Dotonbori, or back to whichever restaurant you're still thinking about.

Day 20 Farewell Dinner

MorningShopping

Pack & Last-Minute Shopping

Get the suitcase sorted before the day gets away from you.

AfternoonFree Time

Free Afternoon

A last walk wherever you fell hardest for — Dotonbori, Gion, or Shinjuku, if you're looping back.

EveningRestaurant

Farewell Dinner

Last full night in Japan — book somewhere you'll actually remember.

Day 21 Departure

MorningShopping

Last-Minute Shopping

Depending on your flight time — Kansai International is about an hour from central Osaka.

AfternoonTransit

Transfer to Kansai International

Build in extra time — the airport limousine buses fill up on peak departure days.

EveningTransit

Depart

Three weeks, three cities, every day trip and restaurant in this guide — nothing left undone.

Where Else We Go

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Concierge

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